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HISTORY
O'Brien
County History
O'Brien,
Iowa "Old O'Brien"
Boom Towns and Ghost
Towns
The County Seat Contested
The
Birth of a New Courthouse
O'Brien County History-
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"An O'Brien County History" |
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In 1850 the Iowa
State Legislature appointed a committee for the purpose of
giving names to its counties. The committee named some of the
counties after the patriots of Ireland and hence O'Brien
County was named after William Smith O'Brien, a leader of the
Irish revolt in 1848.
O'Brien
County is uniform in shape, a perfect square, 24 miles each
way. 16 townships of six square miles. Two rivers, the Little
Sioux and Ocheydan. Smaller streams are Mill Creek, Waterman
Creek and branches of the Floyd River.
O'Brien
County was without a settler until the spring of 1856 when
Hannibal H. Waterman, his wife Hannah H. Waterman and their
child, Emily landed in O'Brien County with two yoke of oxen
and a small amount of household goods. Mr Waterman exercised
his right as a squatter by filing a claim at the government
land office in Sioux City and settled on what became known as
The Waterman Place, the northeast one-fourth of Section 26 of
what is now Waterman Township. It is an area five miles
northwest of Peterson. The next year the first white child
born in O'Brien County was the Waterman's daughter, Anna,
born May 30, 1857. In the next few years, there was something
of a rush of settlement into O'Brien County. In fact, the
first school in O'Brien County was taught by Mrs. Waterman in
1860 and the first school building was built in 1869 in Grant
Township (northeast of Sutherland.) It was built from bricks
made from the local clay ground.
As other
settlers moved into the territory, efforts began to organize
a county. A petition for a proposed county was presented to
the judge of Woodbury County on January 25,
1860. The judge approved the petition and ordered an election
for county officers to be held in the Waterman dwelling on
February 6, 1860.
After the election, the first courthouse was built near Mr.
Waterman's residence. The building was made of logs and was
14 X 20 feet. It was used very little as a courthouse as
there were no records to be kept, but was used as a
residence. The elected county officers often carried any
official documents and papers of the county in their pockets.
Later, the county purchased 40 acres of land from H. C.
Tiffey. The old log courthouse was moved to this location and
was given the name of Old O'Brien.
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O'Brien,
Iowa "Old O'Brien"-
O'Brien,
the first town and county seat in O'Brien County, was located
on the Moding farm, three miles west of Peterson in the
period from 1861 through 1872.
The entire
area west of Peterson and Clay County was unsurveyed,
uninhabited land making up the Territory of Woodbury in the
spring of 1856.
After the
settlement of Hannibal H. Waterman, as well as many other
settlements, O'Brien County was organized, officials were
elected, and a small courthouse was built near the Waterman
settlement.
The next
step in the county movement was to purchase land for a county
seat. When efforts to purchase land from Hannibal H. Waterman
for a county seat were made, he frankly stated that he wanted
the county seat, its affairs and business as far away as
possible. Several attempts had been made to jump his claim in
efforts to seize it from him, so he was thoroughly disgusted
with any county movement.
A Board of
Commissioners to locate a county seat for O'Brien County was
appointed on March 29, 1861 by Judge A. W. Hubbard. A site
for the county seat was located on August 28, 1861. O'Brien
County purchased forty acres of land described as the
southwest one-fourth of the northwest one-fourth of Section
36, Township 94, Range 39 west of the fifth P.M. , from H. C.
Tiffey for $2,000 for the county seat. This land is three
miles west of Peterson and has been the Moding homestead
since March 1, 1895.
Tiffey had
acquired the land from the U.S. Government by patent, the
document by which the U S. Government gives title to land.
The original abstract shows the land was surveyed into forty
lots, 219 feet 13 inches east and west and 198 feet north and
south. Thirteen lots were designated and laid out for the
town of O'Brien, the county seat of O'Brien County. It was
the first platted town in O'Brien County. Some of the streets
had Civil War names such as Lincoln, Hooker, Sherman and
Grant.
With
O'Brien established as the county seat, the log cabin erected
on the Waterman place for a courthouse was moved to the new
town. But there again it was used for various purposes
including that of a schoolhouse in the summer of 1868 and the
year 1869. Later when a new brick school house was built, it
was used for a blacksmith shop and still later for a stable.
The first
general store was built in O'Brien in 1869. The same year a
hotel was built across the road north and east of the Moding
place on the farm owned for years by Peter Richard of
Peterson, now owned by the Bibler family. The lumber for the
hotel was hauled overland from Denison, Iowa. Perhaps this
contributed to its construction cost of $5,300. Later, an
appraisal evaluated its worth at $1,500.
Even
though it has been extensively remodeled, a portion of the
original hotel structure still stands on the site. The owner
of the hotel, C. W. Inman, was the first postmaster in
O'Brien so the hotel served as a post office, too. But at
times the use of the southwest room downstairs demonstrated
true pioneer spirit. Stories were told of leading horses one
at a time from the porch into the room in severe winter
weather so that shoes could be nailed to the horses' feet.
By 1872,
the courthouse occupied three buildings located around the
public square; one building serving as an office in the
forepart for the county auditor with his residence in the
rear.
In addition, the town of O'Brien had grown to include two
general stores, the hotel, a blacksmith shop, a shoe repair
shop, a newspaper known as the O'Brien Pioneer, a post
office, a banking service with the accounts kept on file in
Sioux City, eight residences and a brick schoolhouse.
The
schoolhouse, located some distance south of where the Moding
home stands today, was constructed from bricks that were made
and fired at the head of a ravine east of the Bibler house. A
mud grinder, to prepare the clay, stood at the site for
years. The schoolhouse, often used for public meetings at
night, was lighted by tallow candles.
Peterson,
three miles east of O'Brien was the county seat of Clay
County at that time. It provided many services for the
residents of O'Brien. This included the sawing of logs at the
Peterson mill for building the residences and other
structures in O'Brien. The residents went to Peterson to have
their wheat ground into flour. One written account of the
period states it was the worst flour ever offered to man but
they had to take it and like it.
Many
firsts can be attributed to the town of O'Brien such as the
first hotel in O'Brien County, the first postmaster, the
first banking service, the first newspaper, the brick
schoolhouse and the courthouse. But all of this was not
enough to hold the county seat in O'Brien.
As more
and more settlers moved into the county, the courthouse
location in O'Brien in the extreme southeast comer of the
county became a growing issue. To resolve the matter, an
election was held on November 11, 1872 to determine the
location of the courthouse. A total of 360 votes were cast
with 307 voting to move the courthouse to the exact
geographical center of the county. One historian wrote,
"Probably the only case in Iowa, perhaps anywhere, where a
bare spot of raw prairie was actually voted to be the county
seat:' This eventually became the town of Primghar.
Soon after
the election, the building serving the county auditor was
moved to Primghar. One general store was moved to Sutherland.
One after another, the business buildings were closed so that
in the short span of 15 years, the once promising county seat
town rose and then practically vanished. Then the area became
known as "Old O'Brien" by which it is still affectionately
known.
The forty
acres of land where the town of O'Brien was located was
purchased by Fred Moding who moved with his wife Meta and
infant son Carl to this place on March 1, 1895. This has been
the Moding homestead and the center of the Old O'Brien
neighborhood ever since. Two other sons, Forrest and Winfred,
and one daughter, Martha, were born on the place. They grew
up on the farm and attended the rural school nearby known as
Waterman Township, District No.7. The school was located on
the northeast comer of the George Schierholz farm, serving
not only to provide education for the young people growing up
in the neighborhood, but as a cornmunity landmark for years.
But it too has been the victim of progress.
Win, the
only member of the Moding family living today (July 30,
1987), remembers two log cabins from the town of O'Brien
still standing when he was a boy. One cabin stood on his
parents' place east and slightly south of their house, just
on the west side of the east farm line fence. The other cabin
stood to the north on the Towner place just east of the fence
line. This place was owned for many years by August
Grapenthin.
It has
been 115 years since the pioneers of O'Brien County voted to
move the courthouse and county seat from O'Brien. With the
demise of the town, the farm and immediate area became known
as Old O'Brien - a name that has endured through the passing
years and is fondly remembered by all who have lived in the
neighborhood.
O'BRIEN -
Old O'Brien - a place in history that must not
be lost to future generations.
Written by: Arthur M. Schierholz,
D.C.
July 30, 1987
Note: O'Brien must not be confused with the Waterman
place. Hannibal H. Waterman settled two miles to the
north-west of O'Brien on land that took on his name -- The
Waterman Place. They are two distinctly separate historical
sites, each with its own background to be recognized.
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Boom Towns and Ghost Towns-
Some of the early towns of
O'Brien County have since fallen by the wayside. Erie
(1872-1892), one of the first towns in the county, survived
until the railroad came into Calumet and most everything was
moved there. Other towns that have disappeared are Plessis
1901, Ritter 1900, Old O'Brien 1860-1880, who's buildings and
people moved to Sutherland in 1880 after the county seat was
moved to Primghar, Germantown 1901, Max 1900, Moneta 1901,
and Evander 1900. They are non-existant now, but for maybe an
elevator, grain bin or a church.
The following towns are still
active:
Calumet, platted in 1887; Archer,
which was named for John H. Archer, owner of the land on
which the town was platted in 1888; Gaza, which derives its
name from Gaza on the Mediterranean in the Holy Land. The
town was originally platted in 1887 as Woodstock but was
changed when it was discovered Iowa had another town by that
name; Paullina, which was named from the
Henry and D. Edward Paullin brothers,
early settlers and large landowners there when the town was
established. The town was laid out in 1882 by the Western
Town Lot Company; Sutherland, which was named for the Duke of
Sutherland, some of whose neighbors were settled near there.
The town was laid out in 1882 by the Western Town Lot
Company; Hartley, which was established in 1878 with the
coming of the Milwaukee Railroad and was named after one of
the surveyors and engineers involved in building the
railroad; Primghar, the county seat, which received its name
from the first letters of eight names of those who had a
major part in platting the town. Pumphrey, the treasurer,
drives the first nail; Roberts, the donor, is quick on his
trail; Inman slips slyly his first letter in; McCormack adds
M, which made the full Prim; Green, thinking of groceries,
gives them the G; Hayes drops then an H, without asking a
fee; Albright, the joker, with his jokes all at par; Rerick
brings up the rear and crowns all "Primghar".
It was in 1873
when it was decided to move the county seat to the exact
center of the county. 40 acres were platted in the very
middle and thus the town of Primghar came into being.
Although Primghar did not incorporate until 1888, it had its
beginnings in 1872-73. A courthouse was built in 1874;
Sheldon, which was started in 1872 and was named by Gen. J.
W. Bishop in honor of Israel Sheldon, New Jersey, who was
largely interested in the Sioux City and St. Paul Railroad
that was first built through the area by Gen. Bishop, Sheldon
and their associates. Sheldon was the first railroad town and
also the first town to incorporate; and Sanborn, which was
first planned to be called Edenville, but it was named after
George W. Sanborn, then superintendent of Chicago, Milwaukee
and St. Paul Railroad Company. It was platted in 1879.
Another
courthouse was built in 1870. This was a wood frame building
about 14 x 16 feet. The next year this one was destroyed by
fire and a similar one was built in its place.
In 1872 an election was
held
to determine if a permanent location
for the courthouse should be set up. To get the courthouse
out of the hands of the gangs, it was decided that it should
be moved to a 40 acre tract in the exact center of the county
which later became Primghar. The courthouse from Waterman
Township was then moved to Primghar on the north side of the
square.
In 1874, a
courthouse was built on the present location at a cost of
$2,000. This building was about 35 feet square.
In 1887, the board decided to
build a new courthouse for a total cost of $5,000 which was
the highest amount the board was allowed to appropriate at
that time. The actual cost was $6,000, so the good people of
Primghar signed written agreements to haul the material
without cost to the county from the railroad stations at
Sanborn or Paullina. |
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The County Seat Contested-
There were
four county seat contests. The first fight was in 1872. A
group of homesteaders decided the county seat and records
should be taken away from the gangs and they also thought it
should be located in the center of the county. This brought
about the election of 1872 and it was decided to move it to
the center of the county.
The second
contest was between Primghar and Sheldon in 1879. Sheldon
filed a petition with the county board
and after holding a hearing which
lasted three days, the petition was rejected because the
results were 386 for Sheldon and 392 for Primghar.
The third contest
occurred on November 23, 1882. This was a raid by Sanborn and
was purely physical combat. It began when the railroads of
the county were having a passenger rate war and the Sioux
City railroad offered a round trip ticket to St. Paul,
Minnesota for 25 cents. Every officer in the courthouse
except the auditor, together with
many other citizens, took advantage of
this and left town for St. Paul. Since Primghar had no
railroad at this time, they all got on the train in Sanborn.
When the citizens of Sanbom saw this it gave them the idea
for the raid. The Sanborn people soon got organized and came
to Primghar with wagons, crowbars, pulleys and heavy timbers
arriving in Primghar about midnight. They battered down the
courthouse doors, cut window sills down to the floor and
began to load up records. The county treasurer, county
recorder and clerks safes were also taken. The auditor's safe
was built into the building so it could not be removed.
An alarm was sounded by someone
sleeping in the jail and all of Primghar was soon aroused.
Mr. Peck, the county auditor, was soon on the scene and
walked through the courthouse and told the Sanborn people
that the records must be returned. Primghar men passed among
the teams cutting the harness and wringing nuts off the wagon
wheels, thus preventing removal. By 10:00 a.m. the next day,
the Primghar citizens were in Sanborn trying to get the
courthouse back. It soon became clear to both sides that such
an attempt to move the county seat without a vote of the
people would end up in the courts. At 1:00 p.m., six Sanborn
citizens came to the county board and admitted their mistake
and offered to correct it. They agreed to hand over the
records and pay all expenses on both sides. The hub of one of
the wheels is on display in the courthouse.
The fourth contest took place on
March 3, 1911. Sheldon citizens thought that because Sheldon
was the largest town in the county and because they had three
railroads and Primghar still did not have any, they should be
the county seat. The people of Sheldon circulated a petition.
This lasted 90 days. On June 8, 1911, the Board of
Supervisors had a hearing and after going over the signatures
on the petition, the final vote tally was 3,161 from Primghar
and 1,447 for Sheldon, so, Primghar won again.
On November 3, 1914 a
special election was held to vote on building a new
courthouse. The cost was $160,000 and it was completed and
occupied in April 1917. This is the same court-house that is
in in use today except for some remodeling which was done
from 1994 through 1996. |
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The Birth of a New Courthouse-
Petitions
asking that the question of building a new courthouse be
submitted to the voters of the county were circulated during
the month of September 1914.
Board of Supervisors in session
September 29 adopted a resolution calling a special election
upon the proposition, to be held upon the day of the general
election, November 3, 1914.
The official canvass of the votes
cast at such a special election showed that the measure had
carried; 1,916 votes being cast in its favor, and 1,622
against.
The Courthouse Bond issue of
$140,000 was sold January 21, 1915 to George M. Bechtel &
Company of Davenport, Iowa, for $141,756 and accrued
interest.
Smith & Keffer of Des Moines were
chosen architects in open competition, and awarded contract
on February 23, 1915.
The plumbing and heating contract
was awarded to the Clefton Company, Inc. of Owatonna,
Minnesota, on June 15, 1915 and J. E. Lovejoy of Des Moines
received the award on the general construction contract on
June 26.
Actual construction work on the
new building was cornmenced July 3, 1915.
The design for the new courthouse
is the work of Smith & Keffer, now Keffer & Jones,
Architects, of Des Moines, Iowa.
The design is classic, in the
Doric order, of the later Roman period, and is of those
simple, monumental lines adaptable to the modem public
building. The main part of the building is to face the east
and is featured by a great column treatment applied to the
two principal stories and extending nearly the full length of
the building, being supported at each end by a more solid
treatment with small openings and reinforced with pilasters.
The spaces between columns is
given almost wholly to groups of windows, of sufficient size
to provide abundant light. The entrance in the center of the
first story is approached by a concrete walk and is but three
risers above the grade, flanked on either side by granite
buttresses two feet six inches high, and which is a
continuation of a granite base course of the same height
which extends all around the building. These buttresses are
each surmounted by metal candelabra of massive design, which
add much to the completeness, as interesting accessories, to
the entrance. The entrance itself is of double glass paneled,
heavy bronze doors, with side windows, filling a total space
of about eighteen feet wide, and above this a balcony trimmed
with delicate mouldings and supported by ornate brackets.
The west elevation will be
practically the same with the one exception of the balcony.
The north and south elevations
are more simple and are practically alike, except the
courtroom windows of the north will be more extensive than
those of the jury rooms on the south. The entire exterior is
faced with No 1 Buff Bedford limestone, trimmed with granite
base course and terra-cotta cornice; granite and terra-cotta
being impervious to water and a much better protection to the
walls than stone in these places, and in themselves more
enduring and remaining free from weather stains.
All the window and door glass is
American plate and the window glass in the vaults is webbed
with wire.
The roof is that known as flat,
having a fall of not more than one-half inch in one foot, and
the water is taken down through the middle of the building in
cast-iron pipe, concealed in the walls, and connected to the
sewer.
On the ground floor each entrance
has a vestibule with double glass panel doors, sidelights and
transoms, a hallway eighteen feet wide extending through from
the east to the west entrance, and a short cross hall of the
same width extending north and south. This story contains
offices for the county superintendent, engineer and county
attorney, restrooms and toilets for men and women, janitor's
work room, storage vault and a fine assembly room.
The main stairs lead from the
hall at the west entrance, starting in the center eight feet
wide, to the landing over the vestibule where it divides and
leads to the main floor above, on either side, from where it
continues to the court room floor in a like manner. Another
stairs located in the north section of the cross hall leads
to the main floor and a small inside stairs to the attic from
the court room floor.
The main floor is that containing
the offices of the county supervisors, auditor, treasurer,
recorder and clerk. The supervisors room is located just
above the east entrance and joins the auditor's office, which
is in the southeast corner and which is also directly
connected to the treasurer's office, which is in the south
west corner. Each office on this floor has a public reception
room, large working record room, private office and closet
and toilet equipment. The clerk's office is provided with a
lift to the floor above to convey court records, and is
directly connected with the courtroom by a private stairs.
On the upper floor, the
courtroom, library and private offices for the judge and
reporter occupy the north end, and the jury rooms are on the
south. The sheriff has two rooms in the center on the east
side near the courtroom, and a witness room for women is
located near the stairs on the south. Toilets for men and
women are provided on this floor. There are two petit jury
rooms and a dormitory large enough for one jury located in
suite with but one door to the suite. Each has a separate
toilet and there is a bath for the dormitory.
The grand jury, in
addition to their session chamber, are provided with a
witness room and private toilet. There is also a large
storage room for the janitor on this floor.
The basement is entirely
under the ground and is to be used only for the boiler and
heating and plumbing pipes.
The smoke flue is carried up
through the building in a concealed manner at one end of the
cross hall, thirty feet from the outside walls, and is
balanced on the plan by an elevator shaft extending from the
basement to the attic. In connection with this smoke flue
will be an induced draft for ventilating the toilet rooms
throughout the building.
In the attic is a storage space,
equal to about one-half the ground dimensions of the entire
building; the balance of this story is taken up by the upper
part of the courtroom and a dome over the corridor.
The corridors are important features to
the interior. There are no long halls with bends or turns to
hide the location of offices. Every entrance to all the rooms
on each floor is located in plain sight, except that to the
janitor's work room.
The extreme simplicity of the office
arrangement of the main story is easily the feature of the
building, being absolutely free from confusing complications.
A visitor standing in the center of the corridor is within
fifteen feet of the entrance to every office on the floor,
and has only to turn about in his tracks to see the one he is
looking for.
All the finish of the corridors is of
Italian marble, including the door trim, wainscoting and
stairs, while the toilet finish is Tennessee pink marble. The
stair railings are heavy castings finished in bronze. The
only wood in evidence will be the doors themselves; the
floors of the corridors, including the public spaces in the
offices, are of tile, laid in artistic lines and a seal of
the county is inlaid in the center of the main corridor floor
in colored hand-cut tile.
The courtroom will be made the principal
feature of rich decoration, with beams, cornices and panels,
heavy oak trim and a carefully studied color scheme.
The Finished Courthouse
Construction was completed on the new court-house in
1917. It began
being used immediately after its completion.
The construction of the
building throughout is of strictly fireproof materials; the
finished floors in all office rooms are of battleship
linoleum, and finally, with fixtures and furniture designed
in perfect harmony with the architectural effect of the
building itself, the new courthouse, at a total cost of
$160,000, should be a credit to O'Brien County. |
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RECREATION/TOURISM
Economic Development Corporation, Kiana Johnson, 712.957.1313, P.O. Box 616,
Primghar, IA 51245. email
BOARD: J. Zeutenhorst(Sanborn);
C. Ebel (Primghar); M. Weber (Paullina); J. Johnson (Sutherland); M. Gaul
(Sheldon);
D Schmidt (Calumet); S. Leng (Hartley); T. Farnsworth (Archer); R. Haack
(Supervisors)
Last Updated: May, 2007 ©Copyright 1998 O'Brien County All Rights Reserved
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